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"Daffodil Dreams" article by Mar Jennings in Weston Magazine’s Home Book II.
As a Westporter, former resident of Weston, a former competitive figure skater. I have done a wide array of things in
my life. This unique combination has made me a performer, a team builder and a competitive
yet creative businessperson. This creativity and energy has found its expression in the
beautification and enhancement of my own home and garden in many original and pleasing ways.
When time permits, I am usually working around my house or the garden perfecting my skills,
learning, reading and experimenting in that peaceful oasis that I call my HOME and GARDEN.
I hope to inspire you with ideas and tips about your garden, use of design and color in your
home to satisfy your taste and to create a home environment full of beauty. This is as fun
and creative as you make it. Just as I was greatly influenced and motivated by my Mother
and Grandmother in my childhood home and garden, I now realize that I have nostalgia flowers
and plants that I loved as a child. Encouraged to be creative by my family, I think back to
my favorite blooms while trying to discover new combinations of color to complement what I love.
In June 1997, I bought a new house that would challenge all my skills and become a learning
odyssey of many years. The house was Bermuda pink and it rested on an empty lot with no
landscaping or gardening of any kind. Immediately, the painting began. I chose a neutral
café au lait with Navajo white trim, because your house color should complement your garden,
not overshadow it. Although I knew the house had great bones, I still wanted to transform
this blank slate into one of the most charming homes and gardens in Westport and Fairfield
County, this according to many people who visited here this spring for the Westport Historical
Society Hidden Garden Tour. I decorated the interior with a wonderful combination of antiques,
new pieces of furniture, rugs, and artwork. I boldly used color on the walls against the advice
of my friends, but ultimately my critics roundly complimented my color choices. The gardens began
to take shape as I replaced diseased trees, designed a coordinated plan of fencing, border trees
and shrubs, undulating perennial flowerbeds and a rich green lawn. Soon after, I built a small
garden studio and a gravel driveway. Through trial and error, I slowly began to find which
plants did well and spent a great deal of time in the gardens planting and moving things
around.
As late September comes to a close, it is time to plant new bulbs. Because the majority of
gardens in Weston are troubled with deer, the glorious daffodil reigns supreme—a sunny and
warm harbinger of the spring warmth to come. Yellow is the color of the sun and it can help
lift us out of winter’s depression. Here are three suggestions to have a wonderful daffodil
display next spring. First, buy your bulbs in bulk at local nurseries or through a catalog.
Choose different varieties according to bloom time and you can have up to two months of golden
yellow happiness. You can make it an adventure and drive to Litchfield, have lunch in town and
visit White Flower Farm (Whiteflowerfarm.com).
I also recommend ordering on line in large
wholesale quantities of 100 to 500 at Vanenglen.com, which is a Connecticut company in Bantam.
Prices can be as low as $30 for 100 bulbs. There are dozens of sites; one of my favorites is
bluestoneperennials.com.
All of these companies also sell bulb food and offer excellent advice. Plant your bulbs in
clumps of 10-15 amidst myrtle or pachysandra, up against rocks, along a fence, or anywhere in
your beds. They need full to half sun and prefer a neutral well-drained sandy loam.
Do not add organic matter — daffodils do not want it.
A second way to plant daffodils is to collect all the empty green plastic pots that you can
from your travels to the nursery. Add 1-2 inches of soil, place the bulbs inside, pointy
tip up, fill the pots and bury them 1-2 inches below the ground surface. Why use this method?
In the spring as they sprout, you can pull the pots out of the ground and into a cachepot
surrounded with sheet moss for a brilliant indoor centerpiece or onto a favorite pot on
your patio. Outside, you can move them around and play with your bulb placement in the
beds with little effort. You can also easily plant layers in the pots—daffodils on the
bottom and grape hyacinths a bit higher up. This method will help you decide where to
plant permanently.
The third way is what I call "instant color". You are a busy professional and suddenly it
is Thanksgiving. Oops! You forgot to buy bulbs this fall. In early spring, head to the
nurseries and garden centers and buy flats of daffodils in different stages of bloom. Mix
them together in clumps for instant color. They will return next year. Be sure not to cut
back the leaves until June, allowing the bulb to absorb nutrients from the sun. Some people
advise braiding or folding down the leaves for esthetic reasons, purists say to just leave
them alone. You choose. Snip off the dead flowers.
Every two or three years in the summer, daffodil bulbs should be dug up and separated.
Put small weaker bulbs in a less viewed part of the garden. Plant the larger bulbs in
the most visible garden spots. If you see bulb rot and signs of worms, dust bulbs with
a fungicide after discarding rotted bulbs in the trash. It may be best to remove entire
beds of infested bulbs and plant other perennials there to confuse the pests. Do not
forget to fertilize. If you don’t have the time, just buy new bulbs every few years and
keep planting. In the right soil and light, daffodils will naturalize and spread.
Over the years, friends and acquaintances have asked my advice on many gardening and
decorating matters. For some, I have become a consultant to guide the planning of
their gardens and to help them create that special environment that ultimately states
in part who they are. I was asked to contribute this quarterly article to Weston
Magazine in the hope of sharing some ideas with you. I look forward to receiving
your comments and questions at mar@marjennings.com.
And there you have it!
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